While we had a few cold snaps this winter, the season has been relatively mild over all. This sounds like a plus, we avoided devastating storms and icy temperatures, but a warm winter can bring on big problems like pests.
Tick populations tend to explode in seasons following mild winters when long stretches of freezing temps are not able to help cull the population. Additionally small animals and deer are more likely to survive a mild winter creating the perfect mode of transportation for these disease carrying pests to get into your yard and pose a threat to your family and pets.
Here are some simple landscaping techniques that you can use to help reduce tick populations.
Remove leaf litter and clear tall grasses and brush around homes and at the edges of lawns.
Place wood chips or gravel between lawns and wooded areas to restrict tick migration to recreational areas.
Mow the lawn and clear brush and leaf litter frequently.
Keep the ground under bird feeders clean.
Stack wood neatly and in dry areas.
Keep playground equipment, decks and patios away from yard edges and trees.
The best way to keep ticks from your yard is to have it sprayed regularly beginning in the spring. Organically Green uses safe organic compounds proven to keep disease carrying ticks and mosquitoes out of your yard. Schedule your tree spraying today!
Healthy roots make for healthy trees. They absorb water and minerals, food and water storage, and anchorage. Fostering root growth will build strong, hearty trees. Roots are predominantly located in the top 6 to 24 inches of the soil and occasionally can grow deeper 3 to 7 feet if soil conditions allow. They tend to grow about 2 to 4 times the diameter of the crown.
There are many ways to injure tree roots and stress trees. Some injuries are unintentional and cannot be avoided. However, most root damage can be avoided with some care.
One of the biggest killers of urban trees is use of heavy clay subsoils instead of topsoil and soil compaction. Heavy clays and soil compaction restricts water and oxygen uptake by roots.
Balance is the key to keeping roots their best, too much or too little of anything can be detrimental to your trees.
Changes in soil depth around trees can also cause injury to root systems. The addition of only 4 to 6 inches of soil over an existing root system drastically reduces the amount of oxygen and water available to the roots. Conversely, removing the soil around an existing tree can expose and injure roots, change the soil conditions where roots grow, and reduce water availability.
Overwatering causes the soil air spaces to fill with water and restrict oxygen. Underwatering does not provide sufficient water for proper root development. Overfertilization can injure or kill the roots, but underfertilization results in a lack of the minerals essential to maintain a healthy tree. Competition for water and minerals between tree roots, bushes, grass and flowers can also stress trees. Trees can be stressed from root damage by routine soil preparation in the tree’s root zone for flower planting.
When there are problems with your root systems it will show throughout the entire tree. Symptoms of root disease include small, yellow, chlorotic foliage reduced growth; scorch; tufted leaves at the end of branches; and branch dieback. Mushrooms or conks at the base of the tree, as well as white fungal growth under the bark, may also be a sign of root disease. Symptoms of root problems from construction damage or other detrimental activities may appear one to several years after the damage occurred.
If you suspect your tree may be suffering from root problems contact the certified arborists at Organically Green, (631) 467-7999.
Landscape designs can be as unique as the individual themselves. There are many types of trees to fit any style or aesthetic. Just as important as finding the right type of tree for your climate, choosing the right shape of tree can make all the difference.
Here is a basic guide to tree shapes.
Columnar Shaped Trees
If you are looking for height and drama, columnar shaped trees are for you. Columnar trees are tall and very thin, with upright branches. They provide great screening without taking up much room in the landscape.
Examples: Italian cypress, Lombardy poplar, pyramid oak, Emerald Green Arborvitae.
Pyramidal or Conical Shaped Trees
If you are a fan of Christmas trees this is the type of tree for you. Pyramidal trees are wider at the bottom, with a main center trunk and horizontal branches. Conical trees are similar but are usually more slender and bullet-shaped. These trees are very dramatic and need space to reach their full width.
Examples: blue spruce, Fraser fir, pin oak, western red cedar.
Round or Oval Shaped Trees
If you are more of a traditionalist, round or oval-shaped trees will be right for you. These shade-giving trees are upright, with a central strong trunk that branches into a dense round or oval-shaped crown.
Examples: sugar maple, Bradford pear, white ash, sourwood.
Spreading or Open Shaped Trees
Spreading or open shaped trees are perfect for the romantic. These trees have an open, irregular shape that may be wider than it is tall. In design, they are used to soften buildings.
Examples: cherry, dogwood, ginkgo, mimosa.
Weeping Shaped Trees
For those with a whimsical taste, weeping trees offer a sense of drama and make great accent trees. They have flexible, long branches that hang down and may even touch the ground. Weeping trees should not be planted near walkways or streets where the hanging branches would get in the way.
Light has always been an important part of the holiday season. For centuries people would decorate their Christmas trees with lit candles. As you can imagine, fire on a dry pine tree is just a massive fire waiting to happen and they did often.
In 1900, eight years after General Electric purchased the patent rights to Edison’s bulbs, the first known advertisement for Christmas tree lights appeared in Scientific American Magazine. They were so expensive that the ad suggests renting lights for a holiday display.
Within fifteen years the demand for Christmas lights skyrocketed and thus a billion dollar industry was born.
The basic foundation of the Christmas light, the incandescent bulb, hardly changed for nearly a century, and is only now undergoing is first major revolution, as we start replacing our old incandescent lights with energy-efficient LEDs. Yet, in that same time, we’ve gone from sticking burning candles in a tree to creating massive, computer-controlled—and completely excessive—light displays that are becoming increasingly popular.
If you want to decorate your home like Clark Griswold without having to spend an entire weekend on a ladder in the freezing cold, you can always call Organically Green (631) 467-7999.
As the weather gets cooler, summer pests like mosquitos and wasps begin to disappear and most people think that ticks also disappear along with the risk for disease transmission once there is a frost and the weather turns cooler, but they couldn’t be more wrong. While some species, like American dog tick and Lone Star tick, are not active in fall and winter months. Others, like the deer ticks can remain active in their adult stage from fall to spring as long as the temperature is above freezing.
While mosquitoes and other pests either die or hibernate during the colder months. The adult stage deer tick actually begins its feeding activity about the time of first frost (or early October throughout its range), and it will latch onto any larger host (cat to human) any day that the temperature is near or above freezing. With temperatures often hovering above freezing for most of the winter this means the tick danger rarely goes away. If it’s warm enough to go outside, it’s warm enough for ticks!
Typically, the Lyme disease spirochete infection rate in adult female deer ticks is 40-60% in the eastern and mid-western portion of this tick’s range. So, even in the fall, it is important to check yourself and your pets daily for any attached ticks, and continue to take precautions like using clothing repellents on you and topical products on your pets.
Spraying for ticks early in the spring and late in the summer can help reduce their numbers and keep your family protected year round.
Pumpkin Spice is out and it’s getting cooler. Fall is officially on its way. If you’re wondering what to plant in the fall, the answer is almost anything. Here are six plant types to put in the ground during the fall.
The cool Autumn air temperatures are easier on both plants and gardeners. The soil is still warm, allowing roots to grow until the ground freezes unlike in spring when plants have to wait for the ground to thaw.
The weather in fall also makes it a prime time for gardening, more sunshine days than in the rainy spring.
Pests and disease problems start to decline as it gets colder. You don’t need fertilizer, either. Fertilizer promotes new, tender growth that can be nipped by winter weather; stop fertilizing by late summer.
The window for fall planting ends about six weeks before your area gets hit with a hard frost, usually September or October. Here are some great plants that do well in the fall.
Spring Bulbs
All spring-blooming bulbs need a period of cold dormancy to bloom. Plant bulbs in fall to ensure a beautiful spring display.
Pansies
Pansies do very well in the autumn months. By planting in fall, you’ll get two seasons of enjoyment out of these cool-season favorites. Fall is the best time to plant pansies because the still-warm soil temperatures give their roots time to establish.
Cool-Season Vegetables
Many vegetables thrive in cool weather, including broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, rutabaga, and spinach.
Give your fall vegetables time to grow, often fall-harvested crops should be planted in early August to give them enough time to mature, but by checking the expected time it takes for fall vegetables to reach maturity you can count back from the first expected frost to see if you have enough time to plant said veggies now.
Lettuce, spinach, and other greens with a short maturity time can be planted later in the season. You can extend the growing season by planting them under floating row covers or cold frames that will shield plants from frost.
Tip: Many root crops taste sweeter when they’re harvested after frost.
Grass
Fall is the best time for lawn care. Grasses such as bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass should be fertilized in early September and again in late October or early November to give a boost for earlier spring green-up.
Trees and Shrubs
Fall is an ideal time to plant trees and shrubs because the soil is still warm enough for root development. Keep newly planted trees or shrubs well watered until the ground freezes so they get a good start before going into full dormancy during winter.
Perennials
It’s fine to plant perennials in the fall, especially specimens with large root balls such as peonies, irises, and chrysanthemums.
Any fall-planted perennials should be carefully watered until the ground freezes to keep their roots healthy and strong.
It is hurricane season yet again, and while meteorologists predict a relatively quiet season this year it is important you prepare your yard for the worst. Here are steps you can take to prep your yard for a serious storm to prevent damage to property and most importantly people.
Do Right Now (Before the Storm):
Cut back all trees and weak branches that make contact with your home.
Thin your foliage so wind can flow freely through branches, decreasing the chance that trees/plants will be uprooted.
Place tree trimmings at curb side on your regular scheduled collection day and follow the 6/40 rule (i.e., each pieces cannot not exceed 6 feet in length or 40 lbs. in weight) and must be clear of any obstructions.
Containerize your tree trimmings such as pine needles, leaves, twigs, etc. in plastic bags.
Clean your yard of any items that could become missiles in a storm such as broken lawn furniture, etc.
Once A Storm Warning Has Been Issued:
Do not cut down trees or do any major yard work.
Do not begin construction projects that produce debris.
Do not trim vegetation of any kind. Municipalities will need all the collection vehicles at the ready to remove storm damage.
Do not place materials at the curb or take materials to the landfill or transfer facility during a Watch or Warning period. Services may be suspended and facilities closed early to prepare for the storm. Loose debris can cause more damage.
After The Storm
Be Patient. Following a storm a town’s top priority is the collection of household garbage. Uncollected garbage attracts pests and contributes to the spread of disease. Garbage should never be mixed with vegetation or storm debris, which can wait for pick up.
Please keep all household garbage, recycling, vegetation and storm debris separate!
Securely containerize all household garbage in plastic bags.
Never place any debris near or on a fence, mailbox, power line equipment, water hydrants, poles, transformers, downed wires, water meters, or storm drains. Hidden electrical hazards can injure or kill collection personnel.
Be careful of unlicensed contractors willing to do non emergency tree work in your yard. Many scam artists take deposits and never return to do the work. Only work with licensed professionals.
If you have an emergency such as a fallen tree on a home or powerlines call the electric company or town.
If you see fallen branches on electrical wires report it to the electric company. Do not try to remove yourself!
Landscape trees burst to life in the spring, sprouting flowers in almost every color and young, tender leaves that soon expand to create puddles of shade on the lawn. But what does it mean when it’s mid summer and your trees look like it’s still early spring? You might have a problem with tree boring insects.
What are Tree Boring Insects?
Tree borers are a group of insects that lay their eggs on or inside of trees, where the young larvae eat their way through the wood of the trees. There are many types of tree boring insects, but the results are always the same. Tree borer insects cause affected parts of trees to slowly weaken as their chewing severs vital transport tissues. Over time, they may girdle trees or weaken branches making them a hazard of breaking off and damaging property.
The most obvious signs of tree borer insects are the tiny holes they cut into trunks, branches and stems. These holes may be perfectly round or slightly oblong, sometimes a sawdust-like material, called frass, falls on branches below these holes or forms a long cylinder as tree borer insects excavate tunnels.
What Happens When You Have An Infestation
Treatment for tree borers can be difficult if an infestation has already occurred. Prevention is key if your trees are unaffected, but tree borer insects are active nearby. Removing and replacing an infected tree is often the best way to prevent the problem from spreading to more trees in your yard.
For trees that are not infested, or have only a few noticeable holes, protection from borers make come by improving care. It may seem too easy, but borers are attracted to trees that are stressed and injured; pruning wounds, which are a common entry point for the first generation of invading borers, may keep new borers from entering.
In addition to pruning and removal of infected trees, adding mulch around your existing trees and providing them with supplemental water and fertilizer will help to fight off borers and heal from previous damage.
